Highlights
- ~10,000km
- 20 days
- 1 person
- 1 car
- 0 tents
Summary:
From the 4th to 23rd of January, I embarked on an unforgettable adventure: a solo-20-day-offroading expedition through Saudi Arabia. Just me and Storm, my trusty 2011 Prado.
Technically, this was my 5th expedition to Saudi, but, this time, it was my first time doing it solo.
My aim was to explore new places, revisit my favourite spots, scout good wildlife photography locations, catch the Dakar Rally, enjoy some awesome offroading, and appreciate the stunning beauty and historical sites of Saudi Arabia.
I stitched together a route starting with the Empty Quarter, then to the Southwest to catch the Dakar Rally in Bisha and incredible wildlife in Abha and Jizan, followed by a mission up north to Haql near the Jordan border, which led me out East to Bahrain, before heading home to Dubai. All in all, my trip was about 10,000km in 20 days.
Jump To:
Day 1: Dubai > Al Kharj
Day 2: Al Kharj > Uruq Bani Ma’arid Reserve / Empty Quarter
Day 3: Uruq Bani Ma’arid Reserve > Bisha (Dakar Rally)
Day 4: Bisha (Dakar Rally) > Tanomah
Day 5: Tanomah > Jebal Soudah
Day 6: Jebal Soudah > Abha > Wadi Lajab > Flinstone’s Plateau
Day 7: Flintstones’ Plateau > a wadi near Al Aridhah (Jazan)
Day 8: a wadi near Al Aridhah > Yemen border > Jazan City
Day 9: Marathon Drive — Jazan > Jeddah > Khaybar
Day 10: Khaybar: Black Sand Dunes & the White Volcano
Day 11: White Volcano > Cave of Bones > “Alien” Geoglyphs > AlUla
Day 12: Hegra > AlUla > Wadi Disah > Shaq Canyon
Day 13: Al Shaq Canyon > Tabuk Canyons > Haql
Day 14: Haql > Altar of Moses > Nafud Desert
Day 15: Nafud Desert > Mahajjah Rock > Al Hail > Al Hatima Crater
Day 16: Al Hatima Crater > Tabah > Al Uzaym > Edge of the World
Day 17: Edge of the World > Bat Cave > Riyadh > Diriyah Palace
Day 18: Hofuf > Asfar Lake > Al Ahsa > Qara Hill Caves > Dammam
Day 19: Dammam > Bahrain > Historical Sites > Owls!
Day 20: Bahrain > Dubai
Instagram Highlights | More Behind the Scenes
For more media and jokes from the expedition, check out my Instagram highlights “Solo Saudi” Parts 1 to 5.
Day 1
Dubai > Al Kharj
Date: 4th Jan
Distance: ~900km
Temp: Very cold. 6c!
Left Dubai at 6am and drove 900km to Al Kharj, which is southeast of Riyadh, and camped on a small hilltop. Set up my sleeping bag and pillow in the backseat and enjoyed my first night of the expedition getting used to my comfy first-class camping experience – haha.
Day 2
Al Kharj > Uruq Bani Ma’arid Reserve / Empty Quarter
Date: 5th Jan
Distance: ~633km
Temp: 25c day / 10c night
Enjoyed sunrise then headed South toward Uruq Bani Ma’arid Reserve. My goal was to drive through a bit of the Empty Quarter (as last time I was here in March 2022, we were stopped by rangers) and to explore the historical site of Al Fay (which was not opened in 2022).
During the 570m drive, I stopped at a beautiful field of yellow flowers, snapped some wildlife shots, and enjoyed the small towns.
Uruq Bani Ma’arid Reserve
Al Fay historical site: closed, again! Lots of official cars were parked outside, but not one soul in sight. Sigh – my 2nd attempt to explore this important historical site was thwarted, again. Hopefully my next try, in the future, will be successful.
So, I then turned my attention to the stunning plateaus that rise out of the sand, acting like a fortress blocking entry into the incredible Empty Quarter sand dunes. I deflated and drove in through the plateaus. This time, there were no rangers so I thought it was safe to enter. And, enter I did. I had such a blast joyriding offroading through the gorgeous dunes and mountains.
But, just as I found a camp spot, right before sunset, a ranger caught me. Turns out, I wasn’t allowed to be there without a permit – oops!
We had a funny exchange:
Him: “Where are your friends?”
Me: “What friends?”
Him: “Come on, where are your friends?”
Me: “I have no friends.”
Him: “Just you? Alone? Here?”
Me: “Yes. Just me.”
Him: <speechless>
So, I raced out of the reserve in order to enjoy sunset and then camped across in the seclusion of the tall plateaus.
Day 3
Uruq Bani Ma’arid Reserve > Bisha (Dakar Rally)
Date: 6th Jan
Distance: ~470km
Temp: 25c day / 7c night
I love chasing sunrise! This morning, I chose a random plateau to climb up to and after admiring the views, I turned to discover a historical settlement – what luck?! Of all the plateaus to choose, I couldn’t believe my luck.
After this, I drove to Bisha to catch the Dakar Rally – love rally races!
En route, I came across and explored a desert covered in green rocks that made it look like vast green plains of grass.
Dakar Rally
Later, I reached Bisha and offroaded along the rally route, watching the cars, trucks, and bikes fly by. Such a great time!
I then explored the area beyond the rally route and found a good camping spot in the desert away from the rally hecticness.
Day 4
Bisha (Dakar Rally) > Tanomah
Date: 7th Jan
Distance: ~ 400km
Temp: 26c day / 8c night
Chased sunrise in the beautiful rock structures of Bisha’s desert landscape.
Then, went to the Dakar Rally’s bivouac to see the trucks and cars up close (don’t ask how I got into the biouvac!). Made eye contact with the Dutch truck team (615) of Maurik van den Heuvel and, after flashing their lights at me, they offered for me to CLIMB UP into their cab!!! AMAZING! It was tricky for a short person like me to figure out hand-and-foot positioning but up I went and chatted with the boys for a bit. What luck?! After getting down, they pointed at a juice box they had left on the front bumper and I fetched it for them. I think that makes me part of the official crew 😊
After sending off the rally teams at the start line of the day, I decided to go into Bisha city and grabbed some food at McDonald’s (where I also washed my socks and cleaned my feet in the parking lot) (yes, you can call me officially homeless).
Back on the road, with coffee and food, I then headed south to Tanomah in the mountains (while the rally went north to Tabuk).
Tanomah
From sunshine and warm weather to an instant wall of wall and fog in the mountains. It was so difficult to drive on those treacherous-curvy-mountain roads that I had to nearly pull over due to low visibility.
But, wow – it was so worth it. The lush green forests with hanging fog looked like Switzerland (and had the 8c weather to match too!).
In Tanomah, the fog and rain finally cleared up and I found a secluded camp spot by a forest.
Day 5
Tanomah > Jebal Soudah (2,950m)
Date: 8th Jan
Distance: ~ 210km
Temp: 10c morning / 31c noon / 3c night
Woke up inside my tightly sealed car to a very wet exterior – the windows were dripping from the humidity and fog over night. But, alas, I was dry and comfy inside. It’s a good thing I didn’t crack my window for ventilation during the night.
Explored the lush greenery and tall trees in Tanomah for good wildlife spots and found a highly endangered species: Asir Magpie (only around 130 pairs remain – and I spotted 4 of them!) (Photo: black and white bird).
Rijal Almaa
Heritage Site
Headed to beautiful 900-year-old heritage site of Rijal Almaa on the outskirts of Abha. The heritage site is now much more commercial as compared to my visit in 2022 when it was relatively unknown and virtually empty. 3 years ago, we had the place almost entirely to ourselves. Sadly, unlikely last time, I didn’t find much wildlife there, which I reckon is likely due to the sheer number of visitors. With that said, I was happy to see the heritage site receiving the attention it deserves, drawing hoards of locals and tourists to admire its beauty.
Jebal Soudah
Mountain Peak
Back in the car and up the crazy steep, curvy roads to Jebal Soudah that boasted stunning views and a magnificent sunset. The aim was to find more wildlife and I found troops of baboons to photograph.
At the top, I found a spot, in a residential area, to pitch my “tent.”
Day 6
Jebal Soudah > Abha > Wadi Lajab > Flinstone’s Plateau
Date: 9th Jan
Distance: ~ 250km
Temp: 3c morning / 28c noon / 8c night
Woke up to a frigid 3c morning – was thankful for my Saudi fur coat (loaned to me by my close friend – thank you!) and my Canadian -9c grade sleeping bag. I even sleep with my bear-fur hat (my special name for it) on at night to keep my ears nice and warm. After living in Dubai for almost 13 years, I’ve clearly lost my Canadian natural-polar-bear fur and can’t handle the cold as well anymore!
Packed up and early morning, in the dark, drove down to Abha to use a toilet since I had “camped” in a residential area (and, it isn’t polite to leave bio-hazardous material on someone’s lawn). So, I found myself at Starbucks…! I gave in and reverted to my loved drink (iced coffee Frappuccino) (I think I’m allowed as I am on holiday!) and then set off to Wadi Lajab.
Wadi Lajab
This was my 2nd visit to the beautiful Wadi Lajab. It is still so incredibly beautiful. Lush greenery and pools of water. (A wadi is a dry riverbed (except in rainy season) often located in a ravine or valley).
Flinstones’ Plateau
After getting wet, I spent half the day offroading mountain trails up on “Flintstones’ Plateau.” Steep, loose climbs and rock crawling routes – I was in heaven!
Camped at the top on a small outcrop with a gorgeous sunset and incredible views. There was no reception at the top / my camp spot, but I had my trust Garmin InReach to update family and friends of my location and status.
The place looks like Flintstones’ world with round cave-type mounds everywhere. Loveeeed it! These plateau trails were a new offroading section for me. Was totally in heaven!
Day 7
Flintstones’ Plateau > a wadi near Al Aridhah (Jazan)
Date: 10th Jan
Distance: ~ 180km
Temp: 8c morning // 31c day/night
Chased sunrise in the morning and explored more rock trails on the mountain plateau. Had such a fabulous time – I love the area! The Flintstones definitely lived there!
The place is lush with hanging gardens from rounded rocks – it’s absolutely other worldly.
The Most Dangerous Trail I Have Ever Done
Then, I did the most dangerous offroading of my life…
I was on this single-track cliff-edge track about 1,700m high…
The Scariest Moment… Reversing!
Then, to my horror, the one farmer who resides at the end of this track was headed towards me! I had to reverse… scariest thing I have done. I was shitting bricks and wishing my crew was with me to radio instructions (ie. Left, right, straight, etc.). Alas, I managed the reverse and prayed, when I returned on this same track, I would not meet the farmer again…! Reversing once was once more than enough – it’ll last me a life time!
Wildlife
The mountain in the south of Saudi are home to the endemic Anderson Rock Agama (ie. blue reptile in the photos). This trip, I saw 4 here on the plateau and snapped some pictures while I told him all about my horrific reversing tale. He seemed to enjoy the drama of the story and sat still for some headshots.
The Descent
I contemplated staying one more night on the plateau to do more rock trails (but, hopefully not as sketchy as that “Road to Hell”), but, alas, decided to leave as I had lots more in Saudi to cover. But, I will definitely be back.
So, I headed down off the mountain and went South to explore wadis in Jazan for good wildlife spots – basically, a recce for my next trip to reduce the time it takes to find entry and exit spots. Reached a wadi near Al Aridhah and set up “camp” there – gosh, it was really warm down in the wadi – 31c!
Day 8
A wadi near Al Aridhah > Yemen border > Jazan City
Date: 11th Jan
Distance: ~ 250km
Temp: 31c
I enjoyed sunrise watching the sun rise between Yemeni mountain peaks. After that, I spent the day exploring wadis in Saudi’s southernmost region, along the border with Yemen, and found great wildlife-potential spots for a future wildlife-specific trip to this region. Such stunningly green lush areas teeming with wildlife!
The Yemen Border
(Was itching to cross!)
I saw a sign saying “Yemen border check 500m” and really had to fight with myself to not cross the border into Yemen. I’m sure my family would disown me, as they were already displeased that I was this close to the Yemen border in the first place!
Despite being so close to the Yemen border (and with the ongoing Saudi-Yeman conflict), I was pleasantly surprised to find these border towns so calm; there was an unusual lack of military presence as well (other than the military hospital and other facilities).
Back in 2022, when I was in Najran with my crew, and when the regional conflict was at a high, we could hear gun shots and bomb blasts; there was also a lot of military checks and places were closed off to us. Fortunately, this was not the case for me in January 2025 for my solo trip.
Instead, I came across a gorgeous field of purple flowers and had to stop to walk through them.
I did, however, feel quite unsafe carrying my bazooka-looking camera+lens so close to the border… I kept trying to hide it behind me but it’s sooooo large!
Jazan City
Around 4pm, I headed to Jazan city on the coast and found a camp spot north of the city near mangroves. I had long deliberations with myself on where to camp because the tide was likely to rise overnight sinking my car into the mud by morning… so I found a drier spot slightly away form the tide.
Day 9
Marathon Drive: 1,192km
Jazan > Jeddah > Khaybar
Date: 12th Jan
Distance: ~ 1,192km
Temp: 24c day / 4c night
Caught sunrise on the road from Jazan to Jeddah. Saudi Arabia is a huge country, so to link the southern and northern regions into one trip required a marathon-driving day.
There was heavy rain on the way to Jeddah, which slowed me down, but it was dry and sunny when I reached Jeddah.
Jeddah
This was my first time stopping in Jeddah. I took a short break and met a mate at the corniche for a little walk in civilization, and, lucked out parking right next to the F1 Race Circuit! Win!
I left Jeddah around 6pm and reached Khaybar area at midnight. Found a spot to camp and caught some sleep before an early rise at 5am to do some fun offroading and chase sunrise (this is a must!).
Day 10
Khaybar: Black Sand Dunes & the White Volcano
Date: 13th Jan
Temp: 4c morning / 22c day / 6c night
Woke up and offroaded into the Black Sand dunes to chase sunrise – what an incredible sunrise against the black sand! This is one of my favourite places. My first visit here was in 2021 with my crew and it was still incredible the second time round.
This time, I went dune bashing and it really isn’t the smarted of ideas when you’re solo – oops! The volcanic gravel terrain is really deep and I couldn’t make it up some of the climbs. In fact, on one occasion, my car slid back and wouldn’t stop when I hit the brakes – my dashboard lights were crazy. Nothing worked. So, turned off the car. Waited. Had no reception and thought I might have to call for help, but… then, it turned on. I was able to get into reverse and reversed down the dune to safety.
After that, I saw this long ridge and, after some humming and hah’ing… weighing the risks… I decided to climb and ride the ridge. Wow. If I bailed to the right, I would lose my car (I would survive but the car would not survive the massive volcanic field below); if I bailed to the left, then I would struggle to brake in time before smashing into the sharp, short dune ridge at the bottom – I’d likely lose my radiator on impact. At the top, was a big question mark: are there rocks there that would slice my tires, or is it really sharp?
Yeah, so, against better judgement, I went for it. I figured I have food and water for 7 days and can sit and wait for help if I get into a jam.
It was incredible!!!
White Volcano
Jebal Bayda
After spending most of the day at the Black Sand Dunes, engaging in some exhilarating dune bashing, I headed over across the volcanic plain to the White Volcano to catch sunset.
This was 2nd visit to the White Volcano and, just like in my Oct 2022 trip, I reached before sunset and raced up to enjoy the beautiful sun setting.
Saudi Arabia has at least 12 volcanic fields and the one in Khaybar is one of the largest at 14,000 sq km. Formed by eruptions over the past 5 million years, the most recent eruptions were within 1,500 years. Jebal Bayda (the White Volcano) is a tuff cone volcano with a diameter of 1.5km. To learn more about these volcanoes read this Nasa article.
Then, I camped at the bottom of the volcano and was stunned at how bright the moonlight was. This area has no reception and it is so pleasant to unplug and enjoy the cold night snuggled up in my sleeping bag and Saudi coat.
Black Lava Fields around the White Volcano – Khaybar, Saudi Arabia
The White Volcano Geological Park is one of my favourite places. Rising up between black lava fields is the tall, but even wider (1.5km diameter), White Volcano – it stands out against the black expanse. But, the feeling there is even more impressive – it evokes ages gone and history to come. It’s timeless.
The landscape is brutal, especially for your tires if you drive through. This next video shows the height of the lava field and the brutal terrain.
Day 11
Khaybar: The White Volcano > Cave of Bones > “Alien” Geoglyphs > AlUla
Date: 14th Jan
Temp: 6c morning / 22c day / 11c night
Woke up and circled the rim of the volcano again! Hahaha. I had to. It was right there. Haha. Had to catch sunrise up at the top – how could I not?
The climb in the dark wasn’t the safest but I made it up and had a blast riding the rim – such a fantastic area to be.
The energy there is so grounding and freeing. This was my 2nd time to this volcano (first was in Oct 2022) and I hope it is not my last!
Can you tell I love this volcano? I even ran along half of the rim out of excitement (despite how cold it was!) Haha
The Cave of Bones
Afterwards, I headed to the 7,000-year-old Cave of Bones for my 2nd time. I loved it the first time back in Oct 2022 and had to visit it again.
The end of the cave system has hundreds of thousands of bones laying on the ground. Scientists identified most of the bones are from around 14 animal species while only a small percentage are human bones. With lots of fossilized hyena poop present, scientists believe this cave has been a hyena den for millennia, where they bring bones back to the den to cache, consume, and feed their young.
In 2007, scientists heard growls in the cave suggesting it may still be an active striped-hyena den. Yikes. I guess I should be a little more careful next time going in a lone.
“Alien” Geoglyphs
I then aired up and hit the tarmac to walk through some of Khaybar’s famous geoglyphs.
I’ve always been fascinated by the Nasca Lines in Peru, so having this opportunity to see actual geoglyphs in person was an absolute must. You require a drone to see the shapes/figures depicted by the geoglyphs but, without one, you can view them on Google Earth / Google Maps.
For me, it was more important to walk through these geoglyphs and see what it looked like at ground level. It was incredible. At ground level, it doesn’t seem ordered unless you look for signs of order.
The volcanic rocks appear to have no order and are strewn over an entire plateau, except for some areas were they are piled quite high and it is apparent that there has been human manipulation.
So many questions, and so few answers.
Why were these shapes/figures selected to depict?
Who was the intended audience?
What was the purpose?
AlUla & Hegra
After the “Alien” geoglyphs, I drove to and camped North of AlUla, near Hegra, so that I could catch the Hegra tour early in the morning the next day. En route, I stopped at the Double Arch and the Rainbow Arch. This was my 3rd visit to AlUla & Hegra area, so I made quick stops to enjoy the unique rock structures again.
Day 12
Hegra > AlUla > Wadi Disah > Shaq Canyon
Date: 15th Jan
Distance: ~ 500km
Temp: 6c day / 22c night
I started the morning off by driving into Hegra to take the early morning tour of the UNESCO site of Hegra, north of AlUla. This was my 3rd time to Hegra and my 2nd time taking the tour.
This historical site was built by the Nabateans who also built Petra, just north of here in Jordan. In 2021, I did the tour with my crew and we had a blast exploring the site together. I thought, this time, it would be nice to see the site again after 4 years. It was just as incredible as the first time.
AlUla
Afterwards, I drove into AlUla to stock up on supplies (food, drinking water, etc.) and also saw Elephant Rock and the Urn Rock. Again, this was my 3rd visit and now they are fenced off unlike my first trip in 2021. Glad I got the raw experience of the area before the fences went up.
Wadi Disah
Now all stocked up and fed, I drove to Wadi Disah and played in the water. So much fun! My 3rd visit and it’s still such a great time! It definitely won’t be my last!
After “swimming”, I headed up highway 80 (for about any hour) to get close to the offroad entry point to Shaq Canyon, and camped in a random spot near the track so that I could enjoy sunrise there the next morning.
Day 13
Al Shaq Canyon > Tabuk Canyons > Haql
Date: 16th Jan
Distance: ~ 300km
Temp: 7c morning / 20c day
In the wee hours of the dark morning, I grabbed my head torch and checked my engine / fluids and tires to make sure the car was in good order before the next offroading section. These offroading sections don’t have reception so it’s always best to air on the side of caution and pre-empt potential issues.
Al Shaq | Grand Canyon
Closed the hood/bonnet and offroaded to Al Shaq Canyon in the moonlight. I wouldn’t advise driving this track in the dark, even if you have good offroad lights. And, definitely don’t trust your navigational map because it glitched out a bit and I ended up being closer to the edge than I thought. Also, the plateau next to the canyon’s edge has many “shelves” of 1-3 m sheer drops, where your car will crash onto rocks, which are not as forgiving as sand.
I got a bit unsettled and decided to hit pause and wait for a little daylight to make navigating the terrain more clear and safe. The “chasing sunrise” mission is sometimes not the best of ideas!
This was my 3rd visit to Al Shaq and every single time my jaw drops (previous visits: 2021 & Oct 2022). It looks like a beautiful tear in the Earth’s surface stretching for miles. I enjoyed sunrise here and then headed off to my next offroad section: Tabuk Canyons.
Tabuk Canyons
I aired down when I reached Tabuk Canyons and got excited. Even though it was also my 3rd visit here, Tabuk Canyons is a place like no other. Within these canyons, tall walls of rock are cushioned around by sand dunes and they appear to be endless, as far as you can see in every direction. It’s absolutely stunning – the red sand changes swiftly to yellowy-white sabkhas (salt pans) against brown rocks and green bushes.
I flew through about 153km offroad in 6.5hrs, including going through Snake Canyon.
And, what luck – the military was practicing an airshow! I love jets and this was such a treat!
Video: Airshow
Haql | Operation Yemen to Jordan = Complete!
After airing up, I drove an hour to Haql; this is Saudi’s northwestern most city. It’s right at the Jordan border and you can see Egypt’s Sinai clearly across the sea. I found a spot by the ocean and “camped” there for the night.
So, essentially, I had touched the Yemen border and, now, I had touched the Jordan border. My 2nd country border and, again, I was itching to cross (but didn’t)🤣 .
Operation Yemen to Jordan = Complete!
Day 14
Haql > Altar of Moses > Nafud Desert
Date: 17th Jan
Distance: ~ 750km
Temp: 18c morning / 6c noon / 22c afternoon / 6c night
4am – as I had a lot of ground to cover, I set off very early at 4am from the beach in Haql and headed south towards Wadi of Moses (Wadi Tayyib Al Ism).
Wadi of Moses | Wadi Tayyib Al Ism | “Valley of Moses”
I had wanted to explore the Wadi of Moses but, after going south along the coast, the military stopped me and insisted I turn back north to Haql and head to Tabuk. Apparently, you need a permit to enter Neom from the North and, even then, it isn’t guaranteed I would gain access to the wadi. Next time I’ll try to arrange permits to access that wadi. We were not allowed access back during our Oct 2021 trip either.
Wadi of Moses (Wadi Tayyib Al Ism – “Valley of Moses”) is where it is believed Moses spent ten years in voluntary exile after fleeing from Egypt. It’s said to also have beautiful scenery.
Altar of Moses
Instead of wasting 2 hours to loop up back North through Haql and then East to Tabuk, I found a brand new highway that cut across East and which was not on Google Maps yet! Score! Time saved.
Along the way, I stopped (for my 2nd visit) at the religious site called the Altar of Moses, where there are petroglyphs of cows. This is where (allegedly) Moses’s followers waited for Moses to come down from the mountain with the 10 Commandments, and, while waiting, they turned towards idolatry molding a cow-shaped idol to worship.
Video / Photos:
The Nafud Desert
After, I stopped in Tabuk city for a few minutes before heading East to The Nafud Desert.
I absolutely LOVE this desert. This was my 3rd visit and I would happily come camp here a thousand times over – it’s other worldly. It looks like hell on Earth with its tall-craggy-rock spires sprouting from the vast terrain of sand and boulders; the unique shape of these spires are likely due to sand erosion from the violent winds that pass through the valleys.
For me, this place is extra special. During my first visit, in 2021, I had such an incredible experience photographing nesting griffon vultures.
The terrain is not the easiest to get through if you get stuck in a boulder nightmare. Round short boulders are surrounded by deep sand and it’s very easy to damage your car, slice your tires, or get stuck if you’re not careful. But, it is so worth it!
I camped on a hill next to my favourite valley in The Nefud and slept with a big smile.
Day 15
Nafud Desert > Mahajjah Rock > Al Hail > Al Hatima Crater
Date: 18th Jan
Distance: ~ 400km
Temp: 6c morning / 18c day / 6c night
Enjoyed sunrise exploring The Nefud for more vultures. Did a bit of a Toyota photoshoot as well – haha.
Photo carousel:
Mahajjah Rock
Mahajjah Stopped to see the triple arched Mahajjah Rock. I’ve been by 3 times now and it’s always such a fascinating structure.
Al Hail: Al Qishla Castle
Drove on road to Al Hail and decided to be a tourist, for the first time, and visit two heritage sites. On my previous two trips to Al Hail, I never explored the city – just stopped for supplies.
I began with Al Qishla Castle, which was built in 1943, showcasing the traditional Najdi architectural style.
Photos:
Al Hail: Airef Castle
After, I went to explore Airef Castle, which was a military fortress built on a hill in Hail city in 1840 to protect the city. It served as a military fortress to monitor armies and caravans coming to Hail. It has 30 towers and a canon dating to 1989.
Photos:
Al Hatima Crater
After the heritage sites, I drove to Al Hatima Crater to camp. This was my 3rd time at this crater, and it is worth it each and every time. I raced to this spot and managed to catch sunset – haha. I have an obsession to reach places for sunrise and sunset… I might have to change this mindset or, one day, I’ll fall off a cliff at some point in the dark chasing the sun! Yikes.
Day 16
Al Hatima Crater > Tabah > Al Uzaym > Edge of the World
Date: 19th Jan
Distance: ~ 600km
Temp: 6c morning/ 19c day / 8c night
Enjoyed sunrise at Hatima Crater (outside Hail). Before leaving, I decided to try to drive as much of the rim as I could and, yikes, I struggled on the loose gravel and almost slipped into the crater. The crater has sheer drops in most places and, luckily, my spot wasn’t a dangerous section; had I slipped in, I would have been on a safe “shelf”, but, I would have had to go find someone to winch me back out.
Phew. Glad I reacted quickly and the Prado caught traction, allowing me to climb back up.
Living on the edge, a few too many times!
Crater Hopping: Tabah to Al Uzaym
After that, I went “crater hopping” using a new offroad route SE for 100km (Tabah to Al Uzaym). It turned out to be a beautiful offroading route that allows you to drive into some of these craters. Driving into the craters is a really cool experience as you can’t drive down into Al Hatima Crater as the edges are sheer drops in most places.
Edge of the World
Back on tarmac, I hit the road and headed for about 500km to Edge of the World. And, you guessed it, I made it just in time for sunset! Haha.
This was my 2nd visit to this site, and, compared to 2021, it is now monitored by the military and you’re not allowed to drive or camp at the very edge anymore. I asked the military and they allowed me to camp overnight at the furthest point cars are allowed to park. Had a nice evening making my quick dinner, watching a show, and planning my next day’s route.
Day 17
Edge of the World > Bat Cave > Riyadh > Diriyah Palace
Date: 20th Jan
Distance: ~ 300km
Temp: 8c morning / 19c day / 4c night
Enjoyed sunrise at Edge of the World (I had it all to myself! Even the military guard had not yet arrived). It was such a pleasure to be alone at such a special site.
Video: Edge of the World
Bat Cave
Next destination – the Bat Cave!
I had heard of a cave on the way to Riyadh and decided to go find it. It took a little time to search for it simply because I was looking for an obvious opening that I could walk or crawl into.
But… then I finally saw something…
A hole in the ground, with a ladder inside! WAH?! Incredible!
Video: car and hole
So, down I went, equipped with my head lamp and a torch. Safety wise, the ladder was bolted to the mouth of the cave, so it did not appear that it would fall. In hindsight, I didn’t take proper precautions as I should have grabbed my Garmin InReach in case the ladder broke/was lifted out.
The cave came to life the further in I went… watch below.
Video: bat cave
After the excitement of the Bat Cave, I hopped in the car and hightailed it to Riyadh. This would be my 4th visit to the capital, but this was time I was a proper tourist!
National Museum
I highly recommend the museum as the exhibits are well laid out, the intention/message is easy to follow, and it displays artifacts from various ancient sites across Saudi. I was very particularly excited to see artifacts from Al Fay, the ancient site I tried to visit on Day 2 but could not gain access.
Also, at the beginning, there is an incredibly large meteorite that was found in the Empty Quarter in 1932 by John Phillip who returned in 1966 with National Geographic. It weighs 2.75 tons and has magnetic qualities.
Diriyah Palace (1727 – 1818)
I made it to the historical site, Diriyah, in Riyadh, just in time for sunset – yes, I was still sticking to my chasing-the-sun obsession. This allowed me to enjoy this beautiful mostly-mud-brick site both in daylight and at night. Fortunately, it was open this time as in 2022, it was closed for an event.
Originally the home of the Saudi royal family, Diriyah served as the capital Diriyah region from 1727 to 1818 under the first Saudi dynasty.
It was an absolute maze inside. I am quite good with navigating (not to blow my own horn) but I definitely got lost inside!
Dinner
I finally went to my first proper restaurant of the trip and had an actual meal: beef brisket at Smokey Beards. After that, I drove 1.5km East out of Riyadh and camped in the desert.
Day 18
Hofuf > Asfar Lake > Al Ahsa Palm Plantations > Qara Hill Caves > Dammam
Date: 21st Jan
Distance: ~ 5500km
Temp: 4c morning / 20c day / 12c night
In the morning, I hit the road to Hofuf in the East and immediately went to the climb the dune at Asfar Lakes, which is also known as Yellow Lake.
Yellow Lake – Asfar Lake
It’s a swampy area where dunes are surrounded by lakes, lots of greenery, and wildlife. It’s fun to ride the ridge of the large dune there but you have to ensure you don’t slide down into the water; this would mean you’d lose your car and it’d be the end of my trip. Haha. This was my second visit here; my first was in 2021 with my crew on my first Saudi trip.
This is one of the most important wetland shallow lakes in the region, and has been mentioned in historical texts around 1000 years ago. Currently, agricultural waste water is the primary source of water thus why people often refer to it as “man made.” With that said, the area has been deemed a natural reserve, and I recommend visiting it, but just be careful not to get stuck in the mud leading to the dunes.
Video: Asfar Lakes
Al Qara Hill Caves
I had to stop and re-visit this set of caves. This would be my 3rd and last cave system during this trip to Saudi.
This is one of the few hills/mesa in the area and has various cave systems within – not to mention, it’s quite cool inside, which I assume made it a popular spot for people living near here over the millennia. The site is well organized, requires buying a ticket, and the interior is well lit. It’s definitely worth a visit if you are in the area.
You can explore as much or as little as you like, and, knowing me, I had to explore even deeper than I did in 2021 with my crew. This is partly because I was able to squeeze through the very narrow sections that my crew were unable to fit between. In some sections, you find boulders that have fallen, due to erosion over time, finding themselves stacked in interesting ways; also, I assume water must have flown through at some points as some of the boulders are rounded like marbles.
World’s Largest Oasis: Al Ahsa
This region has the world’s largest oasis and it’s lovely to drive through the inner-roads to explore the various farms. A drone flying over would be idea to show the abundance of greenery in every direction.
Video: palm plantation
Dammam
After thoroughly enjoying Hofuf, I drove out to Dammam for my visit to the coastal city.
I reached before sunset (hah) and loved the corniche drive before finding a camping spot in a residential area with a massive remote parking lot.
While at the coast, I had stopped to spy on the bridge connecting Saudi to Bahrain… will I finally cross a border? I’ve been to the Yemen and Jordan borders… but did not cross. Maybe, Bahrain… third time’s a charm?!
So, while “camping” in my car, I planned my route and “things to do” in Bahrain the next day.
Day 19
Dammam > Bahrain > Historical Sites > Owls!
Date: 22nd Jan
Distance: ~ 130km
Temp: 10c morning / 20c day / 8c night
Went to Bahrain!
Spoiler alert… I ended the amazing day and, the last night of my trip, photographing a family of Barn Owls! How did this happen?! Even I wonder. I am so grateful my trip ended with such an amazingly rare wildlife experience.
It was such a beautiful country, whose name means Two Seas as they have sea water and fresh water springs on the island, which accounts for their lush vegetation and superior ancient cultures, dating back 4000 years to around 2000 BCE. It also served as the center of trade routes between the ancient East and West.
I had visited Bahrain in 2019 but it was limited to the airport and hotel – I didn’t even sightsee. Thus, I consider this trip, in Jan 2025, my first official visit to Bahrain.
The King Fahd Causeway
I am obsessed with bridges (perhaps this is why I crossed this border? I wonder!)! This set of bridges was long, around 25km, and was completed around 1986 – I loved it!
Video: bridge
Historical Tour of Bahrain
Are you ready for a historical tour of Bahrain?
I love history and decided to spend my day in Bahrain exploring 4 historical sites. I was impressed that all the historical sites are well preserved and the curatorial practices are impressive.
1. Dilmin Burial Mounds
Details
2. Bahrain Fort
2 hrs with Museum – great museum to visit!
World Trade Center
I found a spot across the road to snap my obligatory Toyota photo shoot – haha. This was the only offroading I did while in Bahrain. I had planned to go south around the island for some proper offroading but I was absolutely obsessed with the historical sites. I’ll be back, as Bahrain is so close, and spend time down south next time.
3. Khamsi Mosque
Details
4. Arad Fort
Details
Barn Owls!
I visited the Souq and stopped at the Pearling Path but it was just before sunset and I was advised by the wonderful staff that it’s best I take the self-guided tour next time I visit.
During this enlightening conversation, my interest in wildlife came up and the kind fellow mentioned he had once heard an owl hoot while out at night; but it was a long, long time ago. There was no guarantee the owl would still be there.
So, I decided that instead of crossing the causeway back to Saudi and camping in Dammam overnight, I might as well just stay in Bahrain and camp near this area where an owl hoot was once heard… a long time ago.
Staying in Bahrain meant I would add about 2 hours to my return journey to Dubai the next day, but, alas, I thought… it’s worth giving this a shot. In any case, what’s the difference in an 8-hour vs 10-hour journey? Hahaha. We all know I don’t mind long drives…! (This also meant I would get to enjoy the bridge causeway again during daylight!)
So, I reached the spot, parked, and went out on foot every hour on the hour listening for owls. It was dark and very cold. I was quite tired, to be honest, but I kept going out on these long rounds listening with no luck.
During these rounds, a kind gentlemen, whom I had befriended, came back after a while with a belt! He had noticed my bungee-cord belt and decided I needed a proper belt – how kind?!
Finally, around 10pm, while out on around of the area, I heard an owl hoot!!!
Then, I spotted it with my torch! I quickly hauled butt back to my car and grabbed a tripod and raced back. Wow. Can’t believe I was actually looking at a Barn Owl!
Then, suddenly, there was more than one owl. I counted 3!
Eventually, while filming, I realized there were 5 owls in this small cavity! How incredible?!
I sat there till just past midnight om the cold taking photos. Yes, it was soooo cold – but, it was totally worth it! I didn’t sleep till 1am ish, and had to up early (before sunrise) to get on the road nice and early for my long drive back to Dubai.
I was beyond grateful for this opportunity. I had already enjoyed an incredible 19 days of this adventure through Saudi, and, now, to end my last night with an owl sighting (forget that it was 5 owls total!) was unthought of… unbelievable. I will forever be grateful.
Day 20
Bahrain > Saudi (Dammam) > Dubai > Home!
Date: 23rd Jan
Distance: ~ 850km
Temp: 8c morning / 25c day
After an unbelievable night with the family of Barn Owls, I woke up after maybe 4 hrs of sleep and headed for the border to re-enter Saudi.
I drove the famous causeway back to Saudi as the sun was rising – I’m definitely obsessed matching my view points/key sites with nice sunlight! Haha.
Made it to Dammam and did a proper car check.
Added more oil, as I had noticed I was quite low (something was leaking), and cleaned my air filter. I did this in the Starbuck’s parking lot and then began my drive back home to Dubai!
Wow. What a wonderful trip.
The 8-hour-return drive home was fortunately uneventful.
I rolled into my garage at around 6pm on a Thursday night in time for work meetings the next day.
Looking back, this was an incredible trip full of exhilarating moments, stunning views, incredible offroading, amusing blunders, remarkable historical sites, and unbelievable wildlife moments.
- ~10,000km
- 20 days
- 1 person
- 1 car
- 0 tents
Post-Trip Drama
What did I break in my car?
Check out my next post to see what all I damaged in the car during my 20-day trip.
